Istanbul rewards slowness. Most travellers do it in two days — Sultanahmet, the Grand Bazaar, Topkapı, leave. They see the city at its most performative, at the hours when the crowds are thickest, and they miss the Istanbul the locals actually live in.
Our five-day route: two nights in Sultanahmet (the historic peninsula, for the Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, and the Basilica Cistern at sunrise), two nights in Karaköy (the Pera side, for Istiklal, Galata, and the long walk down to the Bosphorus), and a final night on the Asian side in Kadıköy — because no visit is complete without a fish-and-rakı dinner in Moda at sunset.
Three meals to plan around: breakfast at Van Kahvaltı Evi in Cihangir (the best menemen in the city), lunch at Çiya Sofrası in Kadıköy (regional Turkish home cooking, no English menu, all the better), and dinner at Mikla — top floor, Galata view, the drinks alone justify the booking.
What to skip: the Bosphorus dinner cruise (overrated, underwhelming), and any guide who promises a 'private' Hagia Sophia tour. What to add: a ferry to Heybeliada, where the pace of life drops by a decade the moment you step off the boat.
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